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Before you start you
there are a couple of things that you can do to prepare for the install. It’s not a bad idea to spray down all the
nuts and bolts with a penetrating lubricant the day before you do the
install. Install the Ball Joints onto
the new A-Arms. You can also insert
the greased metal sleeves and bushings into the A-Arms. This way they will be sitting there ready
to go when you are. Also remember to
hand tighten all nuts and bolts first before you tighten them with a
wrench. You don’t want to strip or
break a bolt! After the lift is
installed your vehicle will need to be aligned. Schedule an alignment with a reputable alignment shop
A.S.A.P. An improperly aligned
vehicle can have unpredictable handling characteristics, which are unsafe,
and you also run the risk of ruining your tires. |
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1. Park the vehicle on a flat solid surface. Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack and support the vehicle with jack stands. Block the wheel to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Remove both front tires and both front shock absorbers (Shock Absorber top nut is 14mm and the bottom is 17mm) Place the jack under the control arm and lift until the vehicle is slightly raised off of the jack stand. |
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2. Remove the 10mm bolt that attaches the sensor
wire to the upper control arm. Using
pliers remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint; the pin is located on
the ball joint shaft under the upper A-Arm.
Remove the nut from the upper ball joint using a 22mm boxed or open
end wrench. Using a ball joint puller
or fork, separate the upper ball joint from the spindle. Loosen the camber bolts using a 22mm
socket, remove the bolt and eccentric washers then remove the A-Arm from the
pivot point.
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3. If you haven’t already done so already, attach the new ball joint to the to the new A-Arm. Make sure that you don’t install the ball joint upside down! The round strike plate on the new A-Arm is supposed to face down! Apply Lock-Tite to the bolt threads and tighten the 12mm bolts in a cross pattern making sure not to over tighten them which could cause them to snap. If you haven’t done so already, insert the purple bushings on the inside of each new A-Arm and the black bushings on the outside of each new A-Arm. Grease the small diameter metal sleeve and insert it into the large diameter sleeve. Insert the sleeves into the bushings that are mounted on the A-Arms until the sleeves is properly seated between both bushings. |
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4. Attach the new A-Arms by aligning the holes in the sleeved bushings with the holes in the frame pivot point mounting brackets. Once aligned slide the cam bolts through the sleeved pivot points from the inside of the A-Arm. Make sure that the center marking on the cam washer is facing up. Place the cam washer and nut on the other side of the bolt and tighten until secure. Pivot the A-Arm downward and insert the new ball joint shaft into the spindle. Secure with the new nut and cotter pin that are provided. Bend the halves of the cotter pin outwards to secure. |
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5. Using the zip ties provided attach the sensor wire to the A-Arms between the ball joint and the bump stop strike plate. Make sure to leave enough slack in the sensor wire for the A-Arm to travel and also keep the sensor wire clear of the bump stop strike plate. Install the new longer shock. |
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Repeat steps 1-5 on the opposite side.
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If you didn't get new torsion bars you will need to re-index your current torsion bars.
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Sway Away Torsion Bar Installation Instructions |
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1. Raise the front of the vehicle and place jack stands under both sides of the frame. Push down on the top of the wheels to make sure the suspension is fully extended. 2. Using a 19mm wrench remove the locknut from the top of the torsion bar adjuster bolt. Using a 19mm socket on the bolt head and a 19mm wrench to hold the remaining top bolt proceed to remove the torsion bolt from the cross-member. When the bolt is free of the cross-member take note of the angle that the torsion bar anchor protrudes from the cross-member. You want to make sure that you install the anchor at the same angle from which it was removed. If you don’t get this right the torsion bar bolt will either hang down too far when the ride height is set or you will not have enough adjustment available to achieve the proper ride height. 3. Now that the torsion bars are released pull the bars towards the rear of the truck and they should come right out. If they don’t come out easily hit the front of the torsion bar with a rubber mallet while pulling them toward the rear or the vehicle. This should do the trick. 4. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the spines at each end of the new bars. Take the rubber boots from the old bars and install them on the new bars. Getting the new bars in can be a little tricky. I found that sliding the rear of the bar into the rear anchor first then lining up the front worked best for me. Don’t forget to install the anchor as close to the same angle that you removed it. I was able to get front of the bars started by hand but in order to get them fully seated I had to bang on the rear anchor with a hammer. 5. The bars appear not to be fully seated because of the amount of spline protruding from the front anchor point but if the rear anchor went in to the cross-member be assured that the bars are fully seated. Re-install the anchor bolt and tighten until the bolt retracts into the cross-member. Lower your vehicle and drive it back and forth at least 10 feet. This will allow the suspension to settle so you can correctly measure your ride height. 6. Measure the distance between the upper A-Arm strike plate and the bump stop. The distance between the two should be between ½” and ¾”. Adjust the torsion bars accordingly. Tighten the torsion bars to decrease the distance and loosen the torsion bars to increase the distance. Once you get the ride height properly adjusted tighten the locknut. |
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Rancho Add-A-Leafs |
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Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands under the frame. Raise the jack stands as high as possible so that the rear wheels as close to full droop as possible. Support the rear axle with a floor jack. Remove the stock shocks. Remove the axle U-Bolts. Place a C-Clamp on the spring pack (two if you have them). Be sure not to clamp the load leaf. Remove the bump stop strike plate. Remove the spring pack bolt. You will probably have to clamp the bottom of the spring pack bolt with vise grips. Slowly loosen the clamps to release the spring pack tension. Remove the load leaf (thick flat leaf on the bottom)*. Install the Add-A-Leaf and the anti-friction insert on the bottom of the spring pack. Clamp the leaf pack together with a C-Clamp and install the leaf pack bolt. I you use the new leaf pack bolt provided with the kit you will have to cut it to length. I was able to use the old leaf pack bolt. Reinstall the axle U-Bolts. Reinstall the longer shocks. *You can install the Rancho Add-A-Leaf and keep your existing load leaf in place but you will need to get longer U-Bolts. You cannot safely use the stock U-Bolts and leave the load leaf in place. |
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Idler Arm Brace Installation Instructions |
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Idler Arms are a notoriously weak part of Nissan's steering setup. The idler arm is located on the passenger
side of the vehicle directly to the side if the engine skid plate. This brace will reinforce your idler arm
making it a much more reliable component.
If your idler arm is bent or damaged in any way replace your idler arm
before installing the brace. 1. Remove the engine skid plate. 2.
Remove the large nut on the bottom of the idler arm.
3.
Remove two of the three bolts located on the idler arm mount. Compare to the holes in the idler arm
brace to figure out which two bolts need to be removed.
4.
Reinstall the big washer on the bottom of the idler arm before installing the
brace.
Slide
the brace over the idler arm stud and re-install large bolt. Apply Lock-Tite to the threads.
5.
Reinstall the bolts though brace and into idler arm mount. Apply Lock-Tite and tighten.
6.
Re-install engine skid plate.
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Enjoy the Finished Product!
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